CUTEQUEEN TRADING 4PCS 50W 6Ohm LED Load Resistors for LED Turn Signal Lights or LED License Plate Lights or DRL (Fix Hyper Flash, Warning Cancellor) with 8pc Quick wire Clip

There were no directions in this kit, but simple enough to figure out what needs to happen. LED hyper flashing occurs when replacing a stock incandescent flashing bulb to a LED. There is way less resistance on a LED than an incandescent bulb because of the superior efficiency. You simply need to add back in the resistance to slow the flashes back down to a normal blink. So, since there were no directions, I thought I'd post some!I replaced stock 3157 rear brake light / turn signals with some 1200 Lumen LED's. As expected, I had the hyper flashing issue. On a 3157 / 3057 bulb you have three wires. I used an inexpensive 12 volt test light to determine which wire was ground, 12 volt constant and 12 volt switched. When you have your key on, turn signal engaged, your test light will blink when you find the 12 volt switched wire. It will stay on constant for the constant wire. You get no test light for ground wire. Got lucky and found a connector further inside the trunk behind the carpet. disconnected here, turned on the lights with the turn signal engaged, probed the terminals and quickly figured out what was what. Made notes and followed wires back to where I could mount these resistors onto a metal surface. If you have no connector, then just use the test light to carefully pierce the wire wherever you intend to cut them. Just remember to use electrical tape over the pierced wire if you choose not to cut it later.Now for the best part! These babies get HOT, real HOT! They absolutely must be mounted on metal to help dissipate the heat. If you choose to run one through the 12 volt constant it will be cooking HOT the entire time your lights are on. For this reason, I recommend only running the one on the switched wire side, therefore it only gets HOT when the brakes / flashers are on. If you have the hyper flashing issue, then you only need one resistor on the 12 volt switched circuit to correct it. You will be able to plug the light in without any resistors and it will light up constantly without any problem.I never have trusted the little jumper splice connectors that come in this kit! If you choose to use them, then they must be mounted inside the vehicle where it is completely dry. I recommend using dielectric grease inside of these connectors at the very least. I always use professional automotive grade shrink butt connectors, the ones that turn into a sticky hot glue to seal everything up when done. So the resistor jumps the 12 volt switched wire and the ground wire anywhere it can be mounted to metal. I cut and stripped the 12 volt switched wire, the ground wire and stripped both ends of the resistor. Twisted one end of the 12 volt switched wire to the resistor and placed inside the butt connector, crimped twice. Twisted the ground wire and the other end of the resistor and placed inside second butt connector, crimped twice. Took both butt connectors and crimped them twice onto the correct color wire on the other end of the cuts. Torched the heat shrink on the butt connectors, mounted the resistors to a metal part inside trunk and presto, no more hyper flash!Again, there were no directions in this kit, so I hope this helps.

Negative: took longer to ship than expected. Ordered them at the same time when I order new LED blinkers, had blinkers a week before the resistors came in. No instructions, but no big deal, I am an electrician and have been installing car stereos and sound systems for 35 years.... no problem. I installed them, one on each of the blinker wires...... easy! Wrong, nothing worked! After checking, double checking and re double checking and going back on utube multiple times looking at how to install LED lights, how to build load equalizer, how to go into your blinker indicator light and rewrite it so the signal doesn’t feed through and blink all the lights no matter what direction and so forth....... I finally came across a short little video “how to install resistors”...... I was like, what the hell I have spent hours trying and looking at everything thing else, but come on, it’s two wires power in/power out to blinker!!!! WRONG!!!!! You hook one wire from the resistor to ground and you hook the other wire into the power wire feeding the blinker...... so the restorer is in parallel with the blinker not in series. Once I saw the video and tested it out, it took like 15 minutes and I had all my blinkers working perfectly...... so you don’t need to do anything else to you system, don’t need to change the blinker relay, add a load balancer, build a diode.... nothing, just wire these resistors one wire to ground and the other wire to your blinker signal (4 blinkers, 4 resistors) and it will work! Took me 6 hours installing my new blinks and these resistors...... if I would have had someone give me this information, it would have taken about 30 minutes!!!!

I had recently replaced all my bulbs in the truck with LEDs, and was getting the hyperflash. It never really bothered me, so I left it, but recently, started noticing when I put the signal on one direction, all the signals hyperflashed on both sides at the same time, so I couldn't leave it any more and went looking for an easy resistor solution and found these.My vehicle has two bulbs of the signal lights in each light housing, and you need one of these for each bulb. It didn't come with wiring connection instructions, both wires out were red, so that didn't help, so I read the reviews and figured it out. You have to connect one end to the positive flash wire, and one to the ground wire (or just a ground screw). Quick connects are provided to make it a breeze. Literally, the most time consuming part was just getting the housings out to gain access to the back.Once I got them all on, the hyperflashing was gone as expected. I had them on for quite some time, testing them and also wanted to see how hot they got. I had seen they get quite hot from the other reviews. If left on for a while (10 minutes of so) they will get pretty hot to the touch, hot enough you can't keep contact with you fingers without pain. In normal use, your signals aren't on but probably a couple minutes while you wait for the red lights to cycle at an intersection, but I can see it being an issue if say you had a flat and were on the side of the road with your hazard lights on for a while.This means you have to plan a little in making sure they aren't touching anything they might melt, like the other wires. I had one of them laying on the light housing during testing, it never even made a mark, so I don't think they get hot enough to affect those, but I could see where they would definitely melt wire insulation. Just make sure you either have them where they will hang free and get air around them, (the gold housing doubles as a heat sink, so just getting some air around them will disperse the heat, or even better would be to use the hole on it and put a screw into some metal, which would disperse the heat even better. Just something to watch out for.Overall, please with the purchase. Simple item to do a simple job, and everything needed is included (except perhaps a wiring diagram).

Lo utilice para quitar el hiperflasheo de los focos LED de las calaveras de mi auto, realmente fue sencillo instalarlo ya que incluye el accesorio para unir los cables.

Excelente opción económica para solucionar el Hyperflash de las luces led de mi Harley.